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To some extent, locals must be in on the joke. Commander’s Palace is something of an iconic local establishment, but the things it’s known for tend to be just slightly over the line of good taste. We attended their jazz brunch on Saturday and were greeted by something approaching nine pieces of silverware — yet no butter-knife. The decor was pleasing, if not as convincingly attractive as we were led to believe, but the party balloons at each table (I’m assuming part of the brunch theme since they were repeated on the back of our menus) gave the slight impression that we had crashed a seven year old’s birthday party. The jazz trio (a guitar, bass, trumpet) were capable, obviously familiar with the particular acoustic requirements of the venue, and generally charming.

The meal was mixed. My seafood gumbo was authentically dark (as Top Chef taught). Anastasia’s turtle soup was appropriately flavored with sherry, though I found the turtle meat to be entirely too gritty. My entrée, braised short ribs, hash browns (they had a fancier name on the menu) and hen’s egg was a delicious play on the steak and eggs standard. Anastasia ordered the sportsman’s breakfast, which was a clearly an overreach in terms of concept (shredded under-seasoned duck meat, shredded carrots, underwhelming pancake with walnut glaze, poached egg) and technically flawed to boot (the egg was badly under-poached, bleeding not a satisfying yolky yellow but a milky white on puncturing). We sent it back in exchange for fried red fish in bechamel, a simpler and better tasting alternative.

We also ordered bloody marys, after seeing other guests with these intriguing red cocktails finished table side with a generous pour of iced vodka (the bottle itself was encased in ice, a theatrical touch considering that our drinks were appropriately close to room temperature). We didn’t so much drink these cocktails, as eat them, or rather let them, with their Cajun kick, eat us. Highly recommended, but perhaps too robust to finish.

Our waiter provided complimentary cocktail samples prior to desert, a kick of acid and alcohol that mingled pleasingly with our bloody marys and entrees. I ordered the bread pudding soufflé with white whiskey glaze. Superb. Anastasia ordered the crème brûlée served in a wide shallow dish instead of a deeper ramekin. This is an ideal preparation for those of us who enjoy extended caramelized crusts.

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